Getaway Sao Tomé

I was looking for a truly authentic Raconet. I wanted to go to a place you can't even find on a map, and and a Norwegian doctor, with whom I met in Namibia, gave me this name! I'd never heard of Sao Tomé, I didn't even know it was a country in Africa, or even an island, and that really appealed to me.

While searching for information, I discovered that in the north there is another equally fascinating island. It's called Príncipe, and I'll talk about it in another dedicated post. Due to the size of the two islands, I debated with other people who were coming on the trip. I wanted to spend more time on Sao Tome; but they didn't listen much, and now I'm grateful to them because in just two days I already saw the essentials of Sao Tome, while Príncipe has a more intense life that needs to be taken at a leisurely pace.

Both islands remained uninhabited until 1470, when the Portuguese arrived, explored them, and decided they were a good place to trade with the African continent. They first colonized Sao Tome and, a few years later, did the same with Príncipe. They started by growing sugar, but over time, they introduced cacao and coffee. The volcanic terrain was a great help, and soon, huge plantations (roças) sprang up that are a must-see! In 1908, Sao Tome became the world's largest cacao producer.

I went at the end of April. It's not the season for turtles (October to February) or whales (early September). So I focused on the people; which, after all, is what I like most.

Sao Tome's Nuno Xavier International Airport is worth a visit in itself. We arrived at 6 p.m., and it was already dark. We headed straight to Omali Lodge to rest, have dinner, and sleep. It's part of the Principe Collection group, known for having the best hotels on both islands.

A visit to downtown Sao Tome is a must. You have to experience a typical day and share moments with the locals. Walking through the center was a wonderful experience.

The first thing I saw was the Fisherman's Chapel. It's a church in obvious disrepair, facing the sea, and with an indescribable charm. When I stopped to take a photo, I heard singing coming from a ship across the street. They were using it as a church, and a mass was being celebrated. What I experienced inside gave me goosebumps (very similar to the funeral I attended in Harlem). Nearby is the Oque del Rey gas station, and you might ask: what's so interesting about a gas station? Well, a lot. There are people chatting, children playing, women selling food. A lot going on.

You already know that whenever I travel, I always try to visit a school. Sao Tome was no exception. The Escola Primària Dona María de Jesús welcomed us with incredible kindness. It's very large, has spacious gardens, and the classrooms are well-equipped. The students wear gowns and are very disciplined. Being able to be in the classrooms and share time with the children was worth the entire trip. As always, I could have stayed there for a whole month!

Another essential visit to any destination in the world, and always with the goal of learning about customs and ways of life, is to visit the market. Walking along, following the directions on Google Maps, we found the abandoned Municipal Market. It was very interesting and worthwhile, but we didn't see any activity or products because we didn't get to see the market in operation.

Sé Catedral de Nossa Senhora da Graça de São Tomé is next to the Presidential Palace, very central. I loved the exterior, simple and colorful. It exudes peace. Unfortunately, as often happens in Catalonia, I found it closed. It's a shame, because we were told the interior is very beautiful. I don't understand this obsession with not having them open during the day!

At the hotel, I fell in love with the sugar bowl, and when I asked where I could buy it, they directed me to the Associação "Pica-Pau". It's an association of small artisans. The shop is very simple but charming. I enjoyed going there and took my sugar bowl home with me!

A visit to "Claudio Corallo" is a must. It's a fascinating experience with Claudio himself, who immerses you in the world of cacao with captivating explanations and a stunning tasting experience. He's been in Africa since 1974. He started in Zaire; but when the situation there began to get complicated (around 1990), he moved to Sao Tome and Principe. He's managed to produce some of the purest chocolate in the world, and it's not bitter. He has two plantations, one on each island. I enjoyed learning about the project and his passion!

Just a half-hour drive from the city center is Monte Café, one of the oldest plantations on the island, founded in 1858. São Tomé's history has always been linked to the exploitation of coffee and cocoa; in fact, for years they led the world's exports. This place, surrounded by spectacular mountains and valleys, is home to the largest Arabica coffee plantation in the country. We also visited the Coffee Museum, a testament to how these plantations transformed into small, self-sufficient towns. Although now in decline, they are a testament to their once glorious past. Nearby is the Almada Negreiros House Museum, a space that combines a restaurant, local craft exhibits, and a tribute to José Almada Negreiros. We ate very well and the people were lovely. Next door is the 60-meter-high San Nicolás Waterfall.

Everything I've described so far is beautiful; but nothing compares to traveling the EN 2 highway from São Tomé to Praia Inhame, the east coast road. Keep in mind that, for much of the journey, the road is no longer a road: it's neither paved nor flat. It's a three-hour journey, not comfortable, but well worth it. It's a must-do.

The rivers are always full of women washing clothes and dishes. I was amazed by the amount of laundry scattered on the ground, both on the riverbanks and on the roadsides, drying in the sun. When they find a flat space, they don't hesitate to place an item of clothing there. I was also very surprised to see women carrying clean dishes with buckets on their heads. They are very clean.

Sao Tome is an incredibly green island with lush vegetation that can be seen even from the road. The plants and trees are immense and intensely green, captivating. Along the way, I stopped numerous times to take photos and enjoy this natural wonder.

Far to the south, we find Praia Pesqueira and the Cascata de Praia Pesqueira, a raconet that will leave you speechless. It's the mouth of a river that forms a waterfall before reaching the beach. It's amazing. It's not one of those perfect beaches with white sand and turquoise water, but it has huge palm trees and stretches of sand between the river and the sea, creating an idyllic setting. As expected, there are women washing and clothes hanging out to dry everywhere. There's also the Complexo Mioba, a bar/restaurant with wonderful views.

Continuing south along the road, we reached the spot I was most looking forward to seeing on the entire trip: Pico Cão Grande. This volcanic peak has a narrow, vertical shape and can be seen from several points on the island. It rises to 650 meters. Stop in the middle of the road; don't be afraid. There are very few cars, and it's truly worth it. The first view of this iconic peak of São Tomé is amazing from the road itself. A few meters further on, there's a viewpoint where you can park your car to admire this extraordinary peak. I'd never seen anything like it. When I arrived, it was covered in fog; however, with patience, it clears and often becomes more cloudy. I took the opportunity to buy a mask in the only small shop there. He's a craftsman who creates wonderful things.

I finished the tour at Praia Inhame, where the lodge is located where you take the boat to Ilha Rolas (I'll tell you more about it in another post).

In short, Sao Tome is exuberant nature, coffee and cocoa plantations, virgin beaches, and authentic villages. I want to return to hike through the center of the island, where there are no roads and the jungle is all there.

I made my second visit the following year at the beginning of April. The fantastic Alemao (a guide I hired again) showed us new places that made me fall even more in love with the island.

First, we went to a coffee plantation in the town of Bela Vista. The plantation is stunning; but the best part was that there wasn't a single tourist. It's a very local plantation, far removed from tourism, in a town that doesn't attract visitors because it's not particularly charming. In the back, I was lucky enough to come across some girls skipping rope... I experienced one of those magical moments that I love so much.

To the northwest are Praia Tamarindos and Lagoa Azul. The former is a place you could easily spend a whole morning. It's an indescribable paradise: white sand and turquoise water. There were, at most, five couples on the entire beach. The latter is best viewed from the lookout point. It's not a comfortable beach.

From there we went to the center of the island. We went back to Monte Café; but this time, instead of going to the Coffee Museum, we went into the town. We had the opportunity to see the daily life of entire families, the shops, life on the street... everything! It was another magical moment because it was Easter break and the children were playing outside. You can imagine how much I enjoyed it! Here you can appreciate what São Tomé once was and what it is now. The buildings, in an obvious state of decay, show the character of the past.

As expected, we ate again at Casa Museo Almada Negreiros, and I'm even more convinced it's a magical place. Spectacular views, delicious food, and a wonderful staff. Since it was nearby, we went back to the Cascata de Sao Nicolau, and I bought an amazing mask!

I've already mentioned that a must-do on the island is driving along the EN nº2 road from São Tomé to Praia Inhame. This time, thanks to Alemão, we went back and saw authentic local spots with people washing clothes in the river, children playing in the water, and even someone surfing. On the other hand, one place that disappointed me a bit was Boca do Inferno. It's pretty, but not spectacular. I suppose it must be cool when the sea is rough, with the waves crashing against the rocks and spraying water; but I didn't find it appealing.

Heading south to the Cascata Praia Pesqueira, I was lucky enough to find a group of children playing in the water. I walked down the path to the left of the bar and spent a lovely time with them. Another magical moment in São Tomé.

And to conclude my second visit to São Tomé, I enjoyed a wonderful meal at Roça São João de Angolares. It's a gastronomic experience, in a beautiful colonial house, that no one should miss.

If you need and/or want help organizing your getaway, don't hesitate to send me an mail!

I was there for a couple of days. Considering the few roads and their condition, it was enough.
Now, if I go back, it will be to hike in the center of the island, which is the even more unspoiled part, and that will take me longer.

It is an intense journey for everyone.

It is difficult to travel with pets in Sao Tome.